“I know just the place” said Carlos my guide as he laid out a chequered cloth and popped the cork on a bottle of fizz. A fitting spot indeed to catch my final glimpse of the awesome Iguassu Falls.
But rewind 3 days. I had arrived from Sao Paulo into the Brazilian side of the Iguassu National Park. Few people know that the mighty falls straddle both Argentina and Brazil and that the two sides offer very different views and experiences. It is often said that you should never say to an Argentinian or a Brazilian that their side is best. In fact, both sides are best!
I was staying at Awasi Iguassu which, over the border in the Misiones district of Argentina, is only an hour from where I landed. The lodge is set in the Atlantic Rainforest above the Iguassu River. The 14 suites are hidden in the jungle and are designed to let the outside in with large picture windows and plunge pools.
But for me, the best thing about staying at the lodge, other than the stunning location and all the flora and fauna that brings, is that every guest gets their own guide and 4 x 4 vehicle, so your days can be mapped out to suit you.
I was introduced to my guide, the wonderful Carlos. We sat down to discuss what I wanted to see and do during my stay. I had two things I wanted to tick off my list. First, to experience both sides of the falls; and second to see the iconic Devil’s Throat (the point where the largest volume of water drops over 250 feet into the river below), without anybody else around.
Luckily Awasi guests have early access to the National Park. So setting off the next morning at sunrise, Carlos and I were at the gates as they opened. We walked at a quick pace. Slow enough to chat, but fast enough to beat the little train that ferries tourists back and forth.
Reaching the metal lattice walkways that take you over the water, as you get closer, the sound intensifies until your breath is taken away by the sight of the torrent of water that funnels thunderously into the river below.
Birds swooping above playing in the permanent mist that the powerful water flow creates. It’s hard to describe the feeling you get looking at the wonderous sight and staring down into the Devil’s Throat with no-none else around….except me and Carlos. No words. Only smiles. Awasi and their guides are able to make dreams come true.
Then as the selfie-stick wielding tourists arrived, we set off to explore the rest of the falls. Leading the way, Carlos took me along walkways, high and low, to various lookouts each giving a different view of the expansiveness of the falls. Iguassu means “big (or grand) waters” in Guarani, a local Indian dialect, and the water crashes down in hundreds of cataracts between lush jungle making them bigger than both Niagara and Victoria Falls.
It’s easy to visit the Brazilian side of the falls and quite exciting having to cross the border and show your passport. The Argentinian side is more panoramic and grandiose, but the Brazilian side gets you right in to the action traversing catwalks and walkways to the heart of the falls.
The next morning I enjoyed breakfast on my deck watching the myriad of butterflies fluttering around and being lulled by the cacophony of the birds. I had to keep delving into the guide book that was placed in my suite, to figure out what everything was.
Then Carlos and I headed out again. This time it was to the Yacui Reserve. The red-dirt road leading to the reserve is a highlight itself.
Once at the peaceful creek I trekked leisurely trials, tried my hand at stand up paddle boarding, and kayaking, before enjoying a wonderful BBQ lunch prepared just for me.
Other excursions offered by Awasi include a road trip to the ruins of the 18th Century Jesuit missions in San Ignacio Miní, Loreto and Santa Ana, a region that is a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site and a visit to the Guarani community that live in villages close to the lodge.
So how long do you need to visit Iguassu? For me I think 3 nights is perfect. You need enough time to see both sides of the falls and that’s a lot of ground to cover. But there is so much more to do and see in the area, so it’s a shame to limit yourself just to the falls. Plus Awasi Iguassu is a wonderfully relaxing place to just sit and be surrounded by nature, so why rush your stay here?
Iguassu Falls are a great add on to a trip to Brazil or Argentina or as I did, before a trip to Chile and Uruguay. If you are interested in seeing this wonder of the natural world for yourself, please do get in touch and let me create a bespoke trip for you.