Whenever anyone asks me where they should head to on their first trip to India, my answer is always the same - Rajasthan. It’s the state which most fulfils the image in your head of quintessential exotic India: fairy tale palaces, sandcastle forts, pastel coloured cities, maharajas and turban clad men with manicured moustaches.
Visiting Rajasthan for the first time in 1991 I fell in love with the chaos, the colours, the smells, the vibrancy and energy of the place. I stayed longer than I’d planned. Me, my backpack and my ubiquitous and well-thumbed Lonely Planet guide book.
I have been back many times drawn by a feeling of belonging - a sort of spiritual home. I have travelled the length and breadth of India, but I love returning to Rajasthan where there is always something or somewhere new to discover. Each time I go, the cities have sprawled further and there are more people and vehicles on the roads, but the spirit and charm still remains.
On my most recent trip I did what I often suggest to clients - flew into Delhi and out of Mumbai. Delhi is a great city and a perfect introduction to India. It is a city of two halves. From the maze of lanes of the old city with crumbling buildings overhung by a tangled mass of electric wires, the bustling Chandni Chowk and Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India. To the formal splendour of New Delhi with its wide tree lined boulevards, formal parks and stunning buildings such as Lutyen’s magnificent Rashtrapati Bhawan and the beautiful Humanyun’s Tomb.
Next it’s Agra and the Taj Mahal. It is iconic and for good reason. I have been lucky enough to see it three times and I am always wowed. It is more beautiful in the flesh than in pictures; the scalloped alcoves, the translucent marbled inlaid with semi-precious stones and the way it appears to change colour from sunrise to sunset.
Then it’s the turn of the colourful cities. Jaipur, the Pink City, so called after the shops, houses and walls of the old city were painted pink as a gesture to welcome the Prince of Wales in 1876. This is probably my favourite city in all of India. Whilst its manic streets of hooting tuk tuks and cows can be an assault on the senses, Jaipur has an energy that I love and a thriving community spirit that can be found across every inch of the city, from the bustling bazaars to the artisan boutiques set up by expats who have made the city home.
Jaipur also has a wealth of architectural gems. Hawa Mahal where the windows were designed to allow royal ladies to peer out at the street below without being seen.
Amber Fort which blows you away with its size covering a whole hillside.
The astrological buildings of Janta Mantra. And the City Palace with its four elaborate gateways at Pritam Chowk and Sheesh Mahal, a room of mirrors, candlelit so that the reflected light follows your path on the ceiling above, which dazzles like a sky full of stars.
One of my favourite things to do is to wake early to watch the city come alive as it really gets you to the heart of Jaipur and local life. From stretching in Central Park before a spot of laughing yoga, to the vegetable and flower market where all trades come together from retailers to wholesalers, the chai man to the accountant. Then watching the morning aarti ceremony at the Govind Dev Ji Temple, where worshippers wake Krishna with rousing cheers.
On this trip, I also had the absolute joy of visiting Dera Amer, a wonderful tented camp about 45 minutes outside the city. Here Udaijit and his family have rescued Laxmi and Rangmala from hauling tourists up and down the incline to Amber Fort. Guests get to spend time with the beautiful elephants and their Mahouts, who have learnt their skills from the generations before them.
There is no riding or painting the elephants, you just spend time with them and learn about their habits. I felt blessed to have been able to get so close to Laxmi. I often arrange for clients to spend time with the elephants and to have dinner at the camp, but I was fortunate to stay overnight in one of the tents. I was treated with the kindest service and ate wonderful homely food. The tents are super comfy and warm with proper showers and hot water, so definitely no roughing it.
Following the colour theme to Jodhpur, the Blue City, here entering my favourite hotel the view never ceases to amaze me, as the mighty Mehrangarh Fort looms over you. In fact every view from the hotel is stunning. Being right in the heart of the old city you live and breathe it and the best thing to do is to go out wandering. To get lost in its labyrinth of medieval alleys and watch normal life carry on in the Clock Tower market, which hasn’t changed for centuries. Since my last visit to Jodhpur the stepwell next door to the hotel has been restored and is stunning. Whilst up at the fort I always have my clients visit with a guide to enhance their experience and may be also a special out of hours private tour. But equally, there is an excellent audio tour too.
Then not forgetting the romantic city of Udaipur, which is a spectacular place set amidst magical lakes and surrounded by hills.
You can opt to stay in a palace floating on Lake Pichola or head out to the fantastically majestic and beautiful Devi Garh, which rises up out of the village of Delwara. This is the perfect place for a few days R&R, but within easy reach of all that Udaipur has to offer.
But, as much as I love the cities of Rajasthan, for me the key to understanding and enjoying the state is to get off the beaten track and to go rural. Not only does this give you a break from the sometimes crazy mayhem, it gives you an insight into village India. A slower pace allows you to truly appreciate the wonders of this region. Whether it’s out in the desert where you can learn the life of the Bishnoi Villagers, in the countryside amongst local villagers, or in the wonderfully scenic rural area of Jawai with its ancient rocky landscape where leopards and the local Rabari herdsmen coexist in harmony.
But these are just some of the highlights Rajasthan has to offer. There are more treasures to be found in the likes of the living fort at Jaisalmer, the tigers of Ranthambhore, the walls of Chittorgarh, or the ornate Jain temples at Ranakpur. But then add on to this the rest of India from the baron lands and monasteries of Ladakh, to the ruins at Hampi and the beaches of Kerala. There is so much to see and do, but you have to start somewhere!
If you have a sense of curiosity and an appreciation for cultural experiences, Rajasthan and India in general will make a perfect holiday for you, whether you are a couple or a family. Please do get in touch if you would like to know more about a trip to India and let me create a bespoke adventure for you to this sublime country.