Landlocked Laos borders Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south, Thailand and Myanmar to the west; it touches all and has the mighty Mekong as its main thoroughfare. It is a place that seems to squeeze past many as somewhere to visit. Sometimes it may get “added on” for a few days to a longer trip visiting its neighbours, but not many consider it as a destination in its own right - and it really should be. The people are the friendliest and happiest you will come across in all of South East Asia, the landscapes are stunning and since Laos hasn’t really hit the mainstream tourist circuit, you get a truly authentic experience that feels like stepping back in time.
UNESCO protected Luang Prabang is one of my favourite towns in all of South East Asia. Once Laos’s ancient capital, this charming, tranquil place with its mix of ancient and French colonial architecture is gorgeous and you can’t help but be seduced by its charms. Stroll around the kaleidoscopic mass of beautifully gilded wats (temples), sip coffee in one of the old shop houses which are now beautifully restored cafés, or delight in the wonderful local arts and crafts on offer.
Luang Prabang really is a place where it pays to wake early. In the mornings there is an eerie feel as the wispy mist settles over the river and the rolling hills beyond. A must is to rise with the dawn and watch the saffron-robed monks leave their wats to stream through the narrow streets and alleys collecting alms from kneeling devotees.
I’d definitely recommend taking a local boat 2 hours upstream to the Pak Ou Caves, which house thousands of Buddha images. The boat trip also affords great views of the surrounding countryside. You can also hire a bike and cycle to the picturesque Kuang Si waterfalls 32km outside the town or learn how rice is grown at the wonderful Living Land Organic Farm, which is a Community Enterprise run by a local team for the benefit of Lao people. There is nothing better for the soul than getting knee deep in mud!
Luang Prabang is also where you’ll find some of the best hotels in the country. From the chic Amantaka where I have dreams of being back in its bath-like swimming pool, to the delightful boutique Satri House and the idyllic countryside Rosewood surrounded by soaring hills, streams and waterfalls.
Heading north, amidst craggy green mountains you’ll find some of Laos’s most authentic and untouched villages - home to remote Akha, Hmong, Ikhos and Khmu tribes. This is one of the few remaining regions where locals still dress in traditional clothing and it’s not just put on for the tourists. It takes some time (and a number of different modes of transport) to get there, but it’s worth it. Stay at the wonderfully atmospheric Muang La Lodge with its beautiful rooms, amazing views and divine food. It’s a great place from which to explore by foot, mountain bike or 4x4. On any day trip you’ll be guaranteed that the views will be stunning, your encounters with local people truly memorable and you’ll be one of a handful of tourists.
Alternatively, head to the province of Xieng-Khouang, where you’ll find the puzzling Plain of Jars. Hundreds of giant stone urns, some as large as 3.25 metres high, are strewn all over the plateau, carved out of solid hunks of rock from the surrounding mountains. No one really knows why they are there; some say to store wine, others dead bodies. It is here, amidst the bomb craters, where you’ll really get some perspective of the war torn history of Laos. It’s estimated that more bombs were dropped on Laos between 1964 and 1973, than during the whole of the Second World War.
In the far south you’ll find natural wonders such as the Bolaven Plateau, famed for its many beautiful waterfalls and coffee plantations and ancient Khmer sites like the evocative Wat Phu in Champasak. Built on a hill beside the Mekong River, it’s older than Cambodia’s Angkor temples and, with much fewer crowds, is very tranquil. Clamber up to the top and be wowed by the amazing view across Laos with the temple ruins and lakes below.
Then, on the border with Cambodia, you have Si Phan Don or the land of “four thousand islands” where the mighty Mekong splits into hundreds of tributaries and washes around tiny sandbank islands that lie submerged during the monsoon period, only to appear as the water subsides. The largest of the islands are inhabited and offer a fascinating glimpse of river-oriented village life. Communities here are largely self-sufficient, growing most of their own rice, sugar cane and vegetables, catching fish and weaving textiles. This is the Mekong at its best, away from the madding crowds where you can hole up in a secluded lodge (like the lovely La Folie Lodge) on one of the islands, swing in a hammock with a Beer Lao, cycle round rural villages and try to spot the rare Irrawaddy dolphins.
Laos really is South East Asia at its most unspoilt - a land of rugged jungle clad mountains, picture perfect temples, meandering monks and French colonial architecture. It’s an inspiring and beautiful land where you really will get a unique glimpse of a country that has remained relatively unchanged for centuries.
If you are interested in finding out more about Laos or other areas in South East Asia, then please do get in touch and let me create your Indochina adventure.