Are you looking for a short break with a difference? Have you done most of the usual weekend breaks – generally to cities with a guilt inducing raft of sights to see? Do you fancy a few days away where you can actually relax, with great food and wine? How about a weekend in Provence for a spot of truffle hunting?
This was something Julian and I did one February weekend. Leaving Manchester on a rainy day, we landed in Marseilles with the sun shining and the weather a balmy 18 degrees. An hour later the little Fiat 500 we had hired was speeding up the pretty hillside to our rather gorgeous hotel and it wasn’t long before we had a glass of Provencal Rosé in our hand, looking out from the terrace across regimented lines of olive trees and vines to Mount Ventoux in the distance.
The next morning we headed off to the farm to meet our expert truffier, who has been working the truffle fields for over 20 years. We learnt that instead of pigs, dogs are used to hunt out the truffles since pigs cannot be trusted not to snaffle the precious haul themselves. And that, although a fungus, truffles - unlike mushrooms - grow underground, preferring the shade of the oak tree.
After our introduction to the leader of the hunt, the Master, we followed him and his dog, Rocky, as we wandered in search of truffles under a canopy of sun-dappled leaves. Rocky excitedly snuffled about, nose to ground, in search of the prized fungus.
Success! The first find was a black truffle worth around €200.
It was great fun being out in the glorious countryside in the fresh air watching the relationship between Master and dog, getting excited each time a truffle was unearthed. But with all that exertion, a sit down and lunch was definitely required. So, heading indoors to a roaring fire and a glass of local wine, we tucked into a truffle-rich rustic lunch of soup with truffle cream, huge platters of bread with truffled scrambled eggs, pots of crème brûlée with a tiny layer of truffle at the bottom and Brie de Meaux stuffed with a truffle cream.
Later that afternoon we were definitely in need of a walk, so Julian and I ventured to the next village through the stunning countryside that surrounded our hotel.
Saturday was the turn of the famous wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape where we did some wine tasting (and drinking) with the hotel’s Sommelier in a few of the family owned wineries.
Then it was back to our hotel for a delicious lunch on the terrace with that stunning view and more easy drinking Rosé, just to keep us on an even keel after the morning’s activities.
Now all our dinners on this trip were multi-course extravaganzas and Saturday night was no exception. But this time each course was truffle based with dishes such as melted Mont D’Or drizzled on salad leaves with truffle shaved paper-thin on top; ballotine of chicken with black truffle; and chocolate shortbread with truffle ice cream. Never in my life had I eaten so many truffles. Decadent yes, but so delicious.
On Sunday morning, our stomachs stretched from the feast of the night before, we set off for market day in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. As well as the local Farmer’s market which crams into the narrow lanes with stalls selling fruit, olives, cheese, nougat, honey and lavender, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is also famous for its Sunday antiques market, which is a treasure trove of all things you never knew you wanted, but can’t leave without buying!
I can definitely say that 72 hours in Provence seemed much longer and to me, was the perfect long weekend break: food, wine, markets, pretty villages and stunning countryside. The area is also great for the avid cyclist and scaling Mount Ventoux is possible…….just not after 3 days of truffles!
If you are interested in making your friends jealous by going on a truffle hunt, please do get in touch and I will let you in on my secret truffle laden location. Truffle hunts in this area run during the season of November, late February and March, so let’s start planning your trip for next year.