Oman is a charmer. Unlike its neighbour, Dubai, it hasn’t adopted a fast paced glitzy lifestyle. Instead it remains resiliently old school, which means you can delight in a heady mix of rich history, traditional Arabian culture and spectacular scenery.
On my last visit to Oman, I flew into the capital Muscat and was immediately whisked off and up to the majestic Al Hajar Mountains. Here the landscape is reminiscent of the Canyonlands of Nevada, barren except for the odd bright Ashas bush, beloved of many a local goat. Getting there requires some negotiation of roads that snake upwards, becoming steeper and steeper as each hairpin bend gets tighter and, for those coming in the opposite direction, the escape lanes resemble ski jumps.
My first stop was at Niwaz, the birthplace of Islam in Oman and the country’s ancient capital. The town is dominated by its 17th Century fort, the largest fort in Oman which is characterised by its unique round shape. Whilst losing yourself in the souk is a fun way to spend an hour or so. Visiting on a Friday morning (which unfortunately I didn’t) you can experience the furore at the Friday cattle market, where livestock are paraded for sale by elegantly white clothed men.
Back on the road there are many mountain villages to explore and scenic photo spots like Birkat Al Maouz, which is set amongst date and banana plantations and has lain in ruins for years.
My base in the mountains was the Alilia Hotel. Built to resemble a traditional Omani village, it perches 2,000 metres up on the edge of a mighty canyon with the most mesmerising views.
It’s a place where you can quite easily do nothing but watch the sun change the colours on the mountains and listen to the absolute silence.
For those who want to be active, there’s hiking and biking. But the highlight of my stay was conquering the hotel’s own Via Ferrata. Italian for “iron way” the route scales the mountain just below the ridge where steep sections of rock are equipped with steel cables, ladders and other fixed anchors.
Despite knowing that you are hooked up with a safety harness and in the hands of experts, when you find yourself parallel to the cliff face, words like “just lean back”, “straight arms” and “trust the wire” seem very unnatural commands. Along the route I was alternating clipping and unclipping my harness as I passed around fixings in the rock, trying to find a safe ledge for my feet as I scaled up and down the rock face. Turning a blind corner, and holding on for grim death, my foot was stretching further and further trying to find a thin piece of metal jutting out. Eventually I felt it below and edged round to safety.
Having turned the corner, a metal rope bridge stared me in the face, which traversed the gaping mouth of the valley below. “Slowly, slowly” were the words shouted at me in encouragement. Calming myself down, I made it across with a big smile on my face and a complete sense of achievement.
It was hard to pull myself away from the stunning location of the Alila, but I was heading even more off the beaten track into the desert to try my hand at being Lawrence of Arabia.
On the edge of Wahiba Sands camels waited for my ride through the dunes.
Then, like a mirage, my camp appeared on the horizon. With just 10 Bedouin style tents, this was home for the night under the stars away from civilisation. The bedroom tents were spacious, with comfortable proper beds, rugs, lanterns and cushions. There was a separate private bathroom tent with washing facilities and a camping toilet.
Heading up to the top of the sand dunes I watched the sunset. Then, as the day turned into night, dinner was served in the main tent, known as the majlis, which was filled with beautiful traditional Arabian fabrics and cushions. This was the perfect place to relax before dinner.
I had the best sleep ever, snuggled up with a hot water bottle listening to the wind whip up outside. Whilst the next morning waking up to the sun rising over the sand dunes was mesmerising.
The final stop of my trip was down on the coast at one of my favourite hotels, the Chedi Muscat, which epitomises chic Arabia blending Omani architecture with Far Eastern Zen philosophy. White washed low level villas sit in the perfectly manicured gardens surrounded by pathways, arches, gurgling fountains and palm trees.
The Chedi is a perfect base to experience Oman’s vibrant white-washed capital, Muscat, which actually feels like a real place (unlike some Arabian cities) with a proud sense of history, prominent Islamic culture and gentle and charming people.
You can easily spend a day wandering down the waterside Corniche lined by historic merchant’s houses and popping into the Muttrah Souq, where all manner of goods have been traded for centuries. Then heading to the Sultan’s Palace guarded by the twin Portuguese forts of Jalali and Nirani. Before taking in the astonishing Grand Mosque, which can hold 20,000 people and boasts the largest chandelier in the world (eight-and-a-half tonnes of Swarovski crystals); it will certainly take your breath away. Whilst in the evening, head to the beautiful Royal Opera House for culture of a different type.
Out and about you can sail the rugged coastline stopping at coves with soft sand and clear waters and hopefully spotting a pod of dolphins breaking the waves. There’s also great diving to be had around the Dimaniyat Islands.
Oman is different. It is not like the Arabia most people visit, it’s what you imagine Arabia to be, a place to escape the crowds with glorious mountains, spectacular deserts, medieval cities and miles of coastline.
If you are interested in finding out more about a trip to Oman, please do get in touch. I would love to put together a bespoke and truly memorable itinerary for you.