Mention you are heading to Naples for the weekend and people look at you with fear on their faces and come out with comments like: "Isn’t it dangerous?" or "I had some friends who went once and they felt very uneasy the whole time".
Poor Naples, it really does have a bit of a bad reputation. Yes, it’s chaotic, noisy and a little edgy in places, but it’s also captivating and in its own way quite beautiful. Let’s face it, the Italians definitely know how to do a good city and Naples, sitting in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, is no exception.
The thing I really love about Naples is that it hasn’t been sanitised to make it look like every other European city. It has its own personality and the mix of historical treasures and the splendid architecture amidst the crumbling buildings and graffiti makes it ten times more fascinating than most cities.
Naples is perfect for a long weekend break or, as Julian and I did recently, as an add on to a trip to the Amalfi Coast. Here are some of the best things we discovered about the City.
The Centro Storico
The old historical centre is really the beating heart of Naples. Here the maze of narrow streets are vibrant and filled with daily life - washing hangs between wrought iron balconies, ladies in rollers stand around gossiping whilst scooters whizz by hooting incessantly.
One of the simplest pleasures is just to wander the streets soaking up the heady atmosphere.
Even the graffiti adds to the charm of the area.
There’s a lot of history going on in Naples. On almost every corner you’ll find a baroque church housing something stunning like a Caravaggio.
The National Archaeological Museum
I can easily get bored when confronted by a lot of old stuff, but this museum is absolutely brilliant. It has one of the world’s finest collections of ancient Greco-Roman art and artefacts, including the statue of the mighty Hercules, and treasures looted from Pompeii and Herculaneum. And I admit that I did slip in to the Gabinetto Segreto, which houses erotic artefacts and saucy exhibits from Pompeii.
Going underground
One of the best tours Julian and I did was 40 meters below the bustling streets of the city. Here, wandering through interconnected passageways, we discovered miles of tunnels that were excavated by the Greeks and Romans as far back at the 4th Century. They were used as cisterns for the water supply of the city for approximately 23 centuries. We gripped lighted candles and navigated a chilly long, low and narrow passageway where water once flowed, to reach them.
During World War II the tunnels became air raid shelters. We saw toy cars and beds, a sewing machine and a radio that were found in the shelters.
Finally, back at ground level, we visited a traditional Neapolitan house to find it was actually built into the side of a Roman coliseum.
Pizza
Pizza is so important to the Neapolitans they will queue up for ages to get a spot at a local pizzeria. Put your name on a list, stand on the street and wait to be be called over the tannoy. I am not sure that system would work in Pizza Express.
But it’s definitely worth the wait when your pizza arrives with its great billowing, black-blistered crust and a thin, dense, chewy base. Toppings are very much kept to a minimum and definitely not a pineapple in sight!
Religion
The Neapolitans are certainly a very passionate bunch and nothing gets them going more than a good religious festival and there is always something religious to celebrate in Naples. We visited at Easter where, without warning, a band would suddenly burst around a corner, brass instruments blaring, drums pounding and Jesus Christ being carried aloft. These are definitely fun affairs as you get swallowed up in the frenzy of the procession.
The Bay of Naples
One of the nicest ways to spend an early evening is to head to the waterfront for a stroll. The views of marvellous Mount Vesuvius and the splendid sunset are best appreciated with a gelato in hand.
Pompeii
Less than 30 minutes' drive from the centre of Naples (or a very convenient train ride away) is Pompeii. Nothing quite prepares you for the sheer scale of this historical site. The excavated streetscapes give you a glimpse of what it would have been like to live as the ancient Romans did. A visit here is totally fascinating and you definitely need longer than you think you will to do it justice.
Everyone becomes captivated by Naples and it makes a perfect place for a long weekend with plenty to see and do. Of course it’s not pristine and, like visiting any city as a tourist, it’s not a place to be unwary. But to be honest, the biggest risk is from pick pockets and, just like I would say to clients going to Barcelona, use your common sense.
If you would like some more information on visiting what I think, is one of the greatest of all Italian cities, then please do contact me.
{Photographs: By Julian and Me}