Fez is often overlooked. Despite it being Morocco's former capital and its oldest imperial city dating back to the 9th Century, many tourists heading to Morocco looking for a whiff of exoticism only ever seem to get as far as Marrakech. But if you are interested in a more traditional and authentic Moroccan experience, then you really should head to Fez. Which is what Julian and I did on our recent trip to Morocco; flying into Casablanca (direct from Manchester) and taking the train to Fez.
Fez is split in two. There’s the Ville Nouvelle, or new town, with its broad, palm-lined boulevards where you can zip around from A to B in a Petit Taxi.
And the old town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best preserved medieval medinas in the Arab world. A warren of over 10,000 alleyways so narrow the only mode of transport is by donkey.
From the roof of our Riad we could get a glimpse of how sprawling the medina was. Much of it unchanged for centuries, bar the proliferation of satellite dishes.
A local man told me "even people who have spent a whole life in Fez get lost". Although I think he was touting for business as an impromptu guide, his words certainly didn't surprise me. Even with a fully functioning Google Maps on your phone, I guarantee you will get lost. But getting lost in the mêlée is half the fun of Fez.
Everyday life thrives in the medina. Ladies in djellabas go about their daily business.
There are back street tailors, hole-in-the-wall donut sellers and stallholders proudly overseeing their beautifully arranged wares.
Whilst coppersmiths beat out intricate patterns on huge bowls.
One thing you will notice about Fez, especially if you are a regular to Marrakech, is the lack of tourists. And with this comes less hassle from the sellers, which is very refreshing. The only pushy sell you will get is by locals wanting to "guide" you to Fez's most iconic sight, the Chouwara Tanneries. Politely say "no". A guide isn't necessary. Follow the signs (and your nose) and head to door 10, walking through the obligatory leather shop to get the best view. Once there the smell hits you like a punch in the face and it's definitely worth accepting the large sprigs of mint offered to ward off the rank odours. But the tanneries are fascinating and offer a unique glimpse into the process of producing leather using ancient methods. Watch bare chested tanners jump in and out of large vats of diluted pigeon excrement, whilst kneading the skins to their desired softness using nothing but their hands and feet.
Fez is considered the spiritual and learning capital of this Muslim country. The medina houses the grand Quaraouiyine Mosque, Morocco's second largest, which is both architecturally and culturally significant. Unfortunately it's not open to non-Muslims so you will have to make do with a sneaky peek inside when the door's open. However, there are some wonderful medersas (universities) where, for a few Dirhams, you can marvel at the elaborate carved plaster work, colourful mosaic tiling and beautiful cedar screens. And thankfully lacking in tourists, which means you can appreciate it without getting a selfie stick in your perfectly posed photograph.
An easy half day trip from Fez is to the ruins of Volubilis, the ancient city out of which Fez was born when Moulay Idriss I declared Volubilis too small to be the country’s capital. This is one of the most gorgeous Roman sites in North Africa and is definitely worth the trip.
Fez is a fascinating place. It’s not Marrakech, which in some ways has lost a lot of its authenticity. But there again Fez isn’t trying to be Marrakech and there-in lies its charm. Fez is all about immersing yourself in a truly Moroccan experience, a medieval magnificence that transports you back in time the moment you step inside the medina walls.
If you would like to find out more about Fez or are interested in a multi-centre Moroccan experience then please do contact me and let me put together the perfect itinerary for you to this diverse country.
{Photographs: By Lesley-Ann and Julian}