I am often asked where’s the one place I’ve visited that has totally blown me away and, I have to say, that’s a tough question to answer. I have seen so many wonderful places and each has its own special memories. But in terms of one country where I felt totally privileged to experience its remote isolation, where I got access to a traditional way of life not many people get to see and where I travelled through pristine landscapes, it has to be the Kingdom of Bhutan.
Difficult to pinpoint on a map, you will find it high in the Himalayas between India and Tibet. The beauty of the country matches that of its welcoming and deeply Buddhist people; the freshest of air awash with blessings and mantras wafting from countless fluttering prayer flags and spinning multi-coloured wheels.
What makes Bhutan so special, is that this tiny landlocked country was isolated (self-imposed) from the outside world for many years and only opened up to visitors in 1974. Even now, it carefully manages the number of tourists that can visit the country so as to preserve its unique culture and traditional way of life, where the men dress smartly in the traditional gho with white cuffs and knee high socks.
A trip to Bhutan will start and end in Paro, where the country’s only International airport is situated and flying in is a bit hair-raising. After passing the snow-capped Himalaya (the peak of Everest so close you can take a photo of it - but make sure you are on the right side of the plane!), the scenery below changes to mountains densely covered in dark forests as far as the eye can see. Then, as the plane takes a sharp turn you can see a very small clearing ahead - oh yes, this is where you land! As the plane eeks its way down into the valley below, it screeches to a sudden halt within seconds of hitting the end of the incredibly short runway.
On our trip, Julian and I spent the first few days in the tranquil and stunningly beautiful Paro Valley. Here mountains loom majestically in the background and the valley is peppered with brightly painted ornate wooden houses, many covered in decorative motifs which, on closer inspection, are revealed to be phalluses (for good luck of course), whilst roofs are covered in red chillies drying in the sun. Chillies are the staple of the Bhutanese diet and when I say staple, I mean staple, they eat them for breakfast, lunch and dinner piled high on domes of rice.
As you walk around you are struck by the silence which is punctuated by the odd cheer coming from the many archery fields. Archery is the national sport and played by nearly everyone, nearly all the time. Each time anyone hits the target their team do a little dance and cheer.
The highlight of our time in Paro was most definitely the hike up to Taktshang Monastery (or Tiger’s Nest as it’s more fondly known). This is the most famous of all Bhutan’s monasteries and perches precariously on the side of a cliff, 900 metres up from the valley floor. On the day that we ventured up, we were determined to make sure that we were the first people to the monastery so we set off at a pretty rapid pace. The trail lulls you in to a false sense of security as it starts quite gently, winding through a wooded area of blue pines and past older tourists on the back of donkeys - puh!
We passed the wooden tea house, which is one of the best places to view the monastery. From here the trail winds steeper and steeper and no matter how fit you are, you still find yourself getting out of breath as the air grows thin. We passed locals going about their business. It always amazes me on trips like this that we turn up fully kitted out in our North Face gear with sturdy walking boots, whilst the locals manage to survive in an anorak and a pair of flip flops!
After an hour of constant uphill we finally got there. We were greeted by the smiley monks who live at Taktshang and the smell of the flickering butter candles mixed with the heady scent of incense. Being the first guests that morning, we were able to experience the serenity of the monastery and the eeriness of its location without anyone else around.
From Paro we headed to Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan. It is unlike any capital I’ve ever come across. There are no traffic lights and only one roundabout, which is presided over by a very well dressed policeman in super white gloves. Here we immersed ourselves in the bustling weekend market, took in some interesting museums (which give a valuable insight into the Bhutanese way of life), visited temples and watched the locals going to prayer, whilst indulging in way too many momos (steamed dumplings), the local delicacy.
We drove east over the stunning Dochu La Pass with views over hundreds of Chortens (Buddhist Shrines).
Punakha was our next stop. We trekked to beautiful monasteries, ate fresh fruit in the fields with locals and just sat gazing out over the valley. We couldn’t help but be struck by the peacefulness and the fact that we were the only western people there, which I can safely say doesn’t happen very often.
The highlight of Punakha is most definitely its Dzong (large monastery), which was one of the most beautiful in all of Bhutan.
Remarkably for a country that sees only a small number of tourists (compared to its neighbours) and is very remote, it has some of the best and most beautiful places to stay. But don’t think that staying somewhere luxurious will cut you off from experiencing real life. It won’t. Each property is sensitively designed in keeping with its surroundings using local products and offering sustainable tourism at its best, plus access to some of the best guides and unforgettable experiences - those little moments that make you smile and you never forget.
Bhutan is a destination like no other, an exclusive glimpse into a remote Himalayan kingdom which few people see and offers an experience that will live long in your memory. The more you invest time travelling around the country, the more magical the experience becomes.
We also included the 8 day Jhomolhari Base Camp Trek. Travelling with just our own team of guide, horseman, cook and porters, we hiked through pristine countryside, over glaciers and through villages of yak headers. Each day camp would be set up in a different and beautiful spot. Averaging around 8 hours walking per day, the highest point we reached was the Bhonte La Pass at 5,000 metres. It was tough, but so rewarding.
If you are interested in finding a sanctuary away from the craziness of the outside world and would like to find out more about Bhutan, please do get in touch. As a nation that supports Gross National Happiness over Gross National Product, visiting this Kingdom will certainly enhance your general happiness.