Welcome to the land of the rising sun, Japan, a fascinating country in so many ways - serene, immensely cultural and bonkers all at the same time - where tradition and modernity coexist in perfect harmony. It’s a place that is on so many people’s bucket list and for good reason.
But Japan is a big country and one of the hardest things about a trip there is deciding on what to do in the time you have. Despite spending 3 weeks in the country I only scratched the surface of the main island of Honshu, which is actually the size of the UK. You won’t cover everything on a first trip to Japan, so don’t even try. Settle on things that appeal, whether that’s glimpsing Mount Fuji, sampling the freshest sushi, riding the super-fast bullet train, spotting kimono clad Geisha or sleeping on a futon in a Ryokan.
My itinerary (from where I ventured to and the experiences I did) enabled me to immerse myself in Japanese culture. And, although I travelled self-guided using the excellent public transport system (all signs are in English), everything was planned and booked in advance to save time on the ground. Here are some of the highlights of my trip.
The capital - Tokyo
My journey started in Tokyo, a huge city with over 13 million people. From the mad Shibuya Crossing to the neon lights and skyscrapers, it’s certainly an assault on the senses.
But for everything that’s bright, fast and jangly, you’ll find century’s old traditions woven seamlessly into the fabric of Tokyo’s cutting edge exterior and so many places to get away from its frenetic side such as the beautiful Hamariku Gardens which, despite being right in the heart of the city, are a haven of tranquillity.
The city is full of shrines and temples which come in all shapes and sizes, whilst the experience differs depending on the sect behind it. Some are very commercial like Senso-ji where the approach is through an avenue of knick-knack selling stalls, whilst Meiji-jingu is a much more serene affair set in stunning gardens.
A street food tour is a great way to navigate the restaurant scene. Guided by a local, I ate yakitori skewers washed down with Yesibu beer in an Izakaya, a small Japanese-style pub where locals gather after work and joined throngs of diners sitting on beer crates eating all sorts of cuisine at the Ebisu-yokocho Food Arcade.
Mount Fuji
Half an hour speeding from city high rises to the quiet countryside and I arrived in Hakone. Touted as one of the places to get the best views of Mount Fuji, it certainly did not disappoint. You can also do plenty of hiking there and indulge in the famous hot springs. Whilst the open air museum, which is full of sculptures by artists from all over the world set in beautiful landscaped surrounds, is fabulous.
The Japanese Alps
Heading north, the next stop was the town of Takayama, where I visited the beautiful district of Sanmachi Suji with its sake breweries and wonderfully preserved old merchant houses.
I also went out cycling with a guide into the countryside around the city, through paddy fields and villages, to get an understanding of rural Japanese life.
Next it was Kanazawa, stopping en-route to take in the rather lovely snowy scene over the UNESCO protected village of Shirakawago, a secluded mountain village known for its Gassho-zukuri farmhouses built in a pyramid shape to withstand heavy snow.
Kanazawa is a historic and cultural gem set on the Sea of Japan coast. It has the stunning Kenroku-en, which is one of Japan's top three gardens, and one of its best preserved Geisha districts, Higashi-Chaya-Gai.
There is also the excellent 21st Century Contemporary Museum of Art, which has so many interesting works of art including the very clever Swimming Pool by Leandro Ehrlich.
Kanazawa is where I got my Ryokan fix. These traditional inns are all about simplicity and omotenashi, the ancient art of Japanese hospitability. Sweet little ladies scurry around looking after your every need. Rooms are uncomplicated - tatami mats on the floor, a low table and chairs during the day and futons at night. Kimonos are de rigour and dinner is always a traditional Kaiseki meal consisting of nine exquisitely presented courses showcasing the different local ingredients and Japanese cooking styles.
Hiroshima Memorial Park
Whether you know a little or a lot about the atomic bomb that exploded over Hiroshima on 6th August 1945, you cannot help but be moved when visiting the excellent Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. The Memorial Museum is so interesting and I filled in lots of blanks in my understanding of the events, whilst listening to stories from survivors and discovering the repercussions years afterwards. Memorial Park is fittingly poignant and the blasted remains of the Atomic Bomb Dome will leave you open-mouthed.
If you spend a couple of nights in Hiroshima, you can easily do a half day trip to the island of Miyajima, famous for its 12th Century waterside Itsukushima Shrine and its rust-red torri gate which appears to float offshore.
Naoshima - A night at the museum
I may have had to book it a year in advance, but checking into Benesse House on Japan’s Naoshima Island was definitely a big tick on my bucket list and a first spending the night inside a contemporary art gallery. Totally unique, guests have free reign to roam after closing and I made full use of being able to flout the “no photography” signs.
There are around 3,000 islands in the Seto Inland Sea, many of which remain quiet and uninhabited. But Naoshima has been turned into the home of an impressive collection of contemporary art, which just sneak up on you as you walk or cycle round the island - in galleries, hotels, houses and outside where the star of the show for me was Yayoi Kusama’s spotted yellow pumpkin.
Kyoto
Kyoto is Japan’s cultural heart, steeped in ancient traditions and offers a complete immersion into its past. It was once Japan’s imperial capital and is full of Buddhist Temples, Shinto Shrines, palaces and gardens with their painstakingly raked pebbles, seas of moss and gentle water features.
In Kyoto is really does pay to get up early to avoid the crowds, especially if you want to get that coveted picture of the hundreds of red torri gates snaking up the mountain at Fushimi Inari Shrine without a selfie wielding tourist in the back ground.
Another incredibly popular place is the bamboo forest. But despite the large number of tourists, a visit there is a must as the majesty of the giant swaying stalks is quite captivating and the noise, as they crash into each other creating a clacking and swishing sound, is mesmerising.
Kyoto is also a great place to try and spot the elusive and enigmatic Geisha. With their completely white faces and steely determination not to be photographed, glimpsing a Geisha (or Geiko which is the Kyoto name for Geisha) is a moment of pure magic.
Japan is a country that offers something for everyone from Manga obsessed children to foodies and those wanting to experience an incredibly rich culture.
Now really is a great time to start thinking about a trip to Japan in 2024 and even 2025 as 2023 has been off the scale in terms of visitors. Planning is key to getting the most out of your time in Japan so, if you are interested in venturing there, please do get in touch so I can help create a dream trip for you, showcasing the best this wonderful country has to offer.