It’s certainly not a hop, skip and a jump to get there. In fact it took a flight to Dublin, a two and a half hour drive across Ireland to a small airstrip outside of Galway and an eight minute flight in a tiny plane. But the absolute joy of Inis Meáin is in its remoteness. You really can’t go any further west in Europe. Next stop America.
Inis Meáin is the quietest and by far the least developed of the three Aran Islands. Sitting 13 miles off the coast of Ireland and at just 5km by 3km, with a mere 160 inhabitants, it’s small. So it’s remarkable to find a place like the beautifully designed Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites which, when you first see it up close, looks totally out of place.
Then you realise its design makes it sit perfectly camouflaged amidst the ornate drystone walls that you find around the island.
The restaurant and its five suites are a true labour of love for its owners, husband and wife team, Ruairí and Marie-Thérèse de Blacam. They wanted to create a place that encapsulated the natural beauty of its surroundings, was sustainable and offered guests the ability to totally succumb to and enjoy the best of the island. The large minimal suites feature lots of wood, limestone and wool. Nothing is there to distract you from the expansive views of landscape and sea from the wall-to-wall windows. But that doesn’t mean the suites lack luxury. You have lovely linens on an enormous bed, alpaca throws, plenty of space to relax and a fridge stocked with snacks and even chilled champagne. Your suite is so well equipped you can be as private as you want.
One of the best bits is the innovative wooden breakfast box. Full of delicious goodies, it is delivered discreetly to your suite for you to devour at leisure, whilst taking in the changing view in front of you. There’s none of this having to be down for breakfast at a set time.
A visit to the island is all about taking it easy and being at one with nature. Stay indoors and read that book you’ve been meaning to finish. Or explore the wild landscape on your doorstep. There are fishing rods by the door, bikes left outside for a ride and beach towels for a brisk dip in the wild Atlantic Ocean, if you’re feeling brave enough. Whilst donning your hiking boots enables you to reach the less accessible coves and cliffs. Each day you are given a backpack with fresh soup and homemade bread, which together with leftovers from the rather large breakfast, means you can go out exploring all day, wandering for hours without seeing a soul.
The Island’s natural beauty and remoteness has attracted many of the literary world. The renowned Irish Playwright, JM Synge, used to spend every summer in the same cottage, which you can visit.
The beach is absolutely stunning and you can sit for hours watching the seals frolic in the ocean.
There is just one pub on the island so, after a long day outside, you can relax with the locals over a pint of Guinness.
Ruairí grew up on the island where his parents set up the rather high end Inis Meáin Knitting Company, which incidentally has an excellent factory shop!
After training as a chef, Ruairí decided to go back home and set up his own restaurant. The food is sensational. Local ingredients cooked simply, allowing you to taste the natural flavours. Lobsters are hoisted from the bay by fisherman in their traditional currahs. Vegetables are seasonal and grown onsite using island seaweed as fertiliser. Bread is home baked using old family recipes. And I love the fact the humble vegetable is given its own course.
The island is a desolate beauty and pure escapism. You go there to slow down and recharge and it certainly worked for me in just a few days. Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites is only open between March and September. Bookings for 2021 will be opening soon so keep your eyes peeled, as it fills up fast.