Sometimes you feel like you need a change. It may be a spiritual desire. It may be you want a challenge physically and mentally. Or perhaps you are craving some time alone. Or maybe it’s the opposite and actually you want to spend more time connecting with someone or something. These are some of the reasons why I decided to embark on a section of the Camino a couple of years ago, walking 250km over 11 days from Porto in Portugal to Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain, following in the footsteps of pilgrims who have walked the Camino (the Way) for centuries.
The Camino de Santiago begins from many cities in Spain, France and Portugal. The best-known route is the French Way, which is also the most historic and most popular. I chose a section of the Portuguese Way as it fitted nicely into the 2 weeks I had available to make my pilgrimage; a journey I was sharing with my godson, Christopher.
The first challenge was our differing views on how we would approach the trip. I am an organised kind of person, a planner. I like detail. I like to know when, where and how I will do things. So when Christopher said “let's play the trip by ear” it made me very uncomfortable! We would know where we were heading, but not how we would get there or where we would stay. This is not the way I usually travel and was definitely out of my comfort zone. But I was ready for the challenge. My only proviso was that I needed a proper bed, private bathroom facilities and really wanted to avoid the usual Camino Albergues, which are a bit like youth hostels.
Christopher and I met in Porto, where we had a few days to enjoy this ever so pretty town with its iconic double-decker Eiffel inspired Dom Luís Bridge and its old town, a maze of steep cobbled streets, higgledy piggledy colourful buildings and Baroque churches. Whilst in Vila Nova de Gaia, the famous port houses line the river.
Ready for the off
The start of the route could either be along the coast or inland. As Portugal was in the midst of a heatwave, we decided to take the coastal route to benefit from the sea breeze. It turned out that this was actually the prettiest route and had far fewer pilgrims.
The way of the Camino is marked by arrows and so navigating the route is easy as you just look out for and follow the way markers. These also let you know how much further you have to go to reach the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
The scallop shell is one of the most iconic symbols of the Camino. It guides pilgrims along the way and you'll often find it at milestone points or being carried on rucksacks.
Day one done
Heading north from Porto, we arrived in the lovely coastal town of Vila do Condo, after 25km walking in sweltering heat. We were so happy to have got the first day under our belt and we also managed to find a cute little boutique hotel for the night.
Continuing along the coast
We were certainly very grateful for the boardwalks that ran along the beaches. But when they stopped, the shoes came off and we hit the beach. Needless to say, we looked slightly out of place amongst the happy sunbathers!
On this particular day, what started out being a relaxed walk with a wonderful lunch, glorious weather and that beach, turned out to be the hardest day of the trip. A wrong turn, a lot of back tracking and 18 kilometres became 35! That long bridge felt never ending.
The next day we treated ourselves to a morning off in Viana do Castelo.
Back on the road and I can honestly say I felt every single kilometre I walked that day.
We made an effort to light a candle to loved ones at all the churches along the journey. Especially for Christopher’s mum, Jacqui (my Aunt), who we lost the year before this journey, aged just 53.
Heading inland
After 3 days we left the coast and headed inland. There are so many lovely people waiting to welcome you along the way with a “Buen Camino”.
The Camino is a spiritual trip for many. Walking the pilgrim’s route is like active meditation, giving you plenty of time to think and reflect.
Crossing the border from Portugal into Spain
This trip meant we saw parts of Portugal and Spain we would never, ever have seen as they are not on the usual tourist map. It was so refreshing to experience an authentic side to both countries and also see some stunning landscapes.
When two became three
Half way through the trip we were joined by my husband, Julian. His first endurance test was completing 45km in one day. Basically, due to a lack of available accommodation in Redondela, we decided to merge two days of walking into one and make it straight to Pontevedra.
Arriving certainly required a celebration!
We had a well-deserved day off in Pontevedra, which is a lovely place known for its well preserved old town and Gothic Santa María la Mayor Basilica.
Arriving in Padron....
….and “yes”, peppers it was.
We made it!
Having completed 250km and arriving at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, this was the look of complete elation after the best 11 days in a long time.
Walking the Camino was one of the most rewarding and fun things I’ve done and if you’ve ever thought about doing it, I definitely urge you to. Please do get in touch if you’d like more information on walking the Portuguese Camino or advice on fulfilling some of your own travel dreams.