Byron once described Montenegro as “the most beautiful meeting of land and sea”. And, as I came in to land at Tivat Airport, I could see why. Beneath me were lush lofty mountains that cascaded down to the emerald green of the Adriatic Sea with smears of white beach in between.
Montenegro is indeed beautiful: the landscapes, the people, the history. It has only been independent since 2006 and has certainly found its stride, but most of what makes the country so wonderful has been there for centuries.
To start with there’s the coastline. And given this, sailing is obviously big. Chartering a boat you can potter from craggy coves to the luxurious marinas via pirate hideouts and hidden coves.
Head inland to one of Montenegro’s five National Parks for hiking and biking in the mountains and kayaking in crystal clear lakes. Or go white water rafting in one of the deepest canyons in Europe. Whilst in Boka Bay, limestone cliffs rise up from the shoreline in an almost fjord like way.
Boka Bay is where you’ll find the historic coastal town of Kotor. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the cobbled streets of it old walled town are full of Romanesque churches, restored frescoes and Venetian fortifications. The pedestrian-only streets were originally built like a maze to confuse invaders.
Round the bay from Kotor is picturesque Perast, a tiny town that was once controlled by Illyrian tribes and Venetian sea-traders. It’s a perfect place to sit and have a relaxing lunch at one of the restaurants that line the waterfront.
Here you’ll find the two islets of St George, with its 12th Century Benedictine monastery, and Our Lady of the Rocks where legend has it that fisherman saw the Madonna’s image in the water and began dropping a stone there each time they passed, to create the rocky island.
In terms of where to stay, you can hole up at one of the luxury hotels overlooking glitzy marinas full of super yachts.
Or you could sleep in a fisherman’s cottage on the fortified island of Sveti Stefan, cast out in the Adriatic. The island has been a hotel since the 1960s when the likes of Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor used to stay. Now it’s in the hands of Aman, so behind the original stone facades is a minimalist haven. But traditions as are still upheld such as lanterns sitting on the window sills, which is what the fisherman’s wives used to do to guide their loved ones home.
Equally you could feel like royalty by bagging one of the eight suites at Villa Milocer over on the mainland, which was the former summer residence of Queen Marija Karadordevic.
But the real blessing of staying at Aman Sveti Stefan are the three private beaches, each more secluded than the last.
If you would like to know more about the wonders of Montenegro, please do get it touch.
{All photography by Lesley-Ann}