Peru stretches from the Colombian / Ecuadorian border in the north to the Chilean border in the South. To the east you have the magnificent peaks of the Andes, to the west over 2,400km of Pacific Ocean coastline and in the middle, the Amazon snaking its way through.
As you can imagine, in such a vast country, there is a lot to see and do. My recent trip across the country left my head spinning as I went from sweating under a mosquito net in the Amazon rainforest, to snuggling up around the fire in a beautiful lodge in the Sacred Valley, cycling around the salt pans of Moray and Maras, hiking up to Machu Picchu, crossing the high Altiplano on board a luxury train, before heading to the coast and then relaxing on Peru’s northern beaches.
My arrival, as it is for most, to this fascinating country was the capital, Lima, which is a great city and definitely worth a couple of nights. You can explore the upscale Miraflores area, or the neighbourhood of Barranco with its art deco multi-coloured buildings and cool vibe. Find out about the history of the country in the UNESCO protected historical centre and learn about the Incas at Museo Larco. There’s even the option to try your hand at surfing or swimming with sea lions.
One of the highlights of my trip was learning about how graffiti is being used to regenerate Callao, once a no go area of Lima overrun by gangs and drugs barons.
As I walked through the streets with my guide, a previous member of one of the gangs and now an instrumental person in the changes, I learnt how Monumental Callao has been a transformational project which, through bringing Peruvian and internationally acclaimed street artists to the area to cover over 60 walls with graffiti, has also brought a vibrant arts, music and restaurant scene to this previously unloved area of the city. I even got the chance to create my own masterpiece with the help of local street artist, Sesion.
From Lima I flew to the Amazon. Landing in hot and steamy Puerto Maldonado I was taken by road and then by boat to Rainforest Expeditions’ Refugio Amazonas where I was to spend the night. Here I scaled the lodge’s canopy tower to get the most amazing views over the tops of the rainforest trees, whilst a visit to the Chuncho Clay Lick rewarded me with the sight of hundreds of kaleidoscopic macaws descending to lick at the sodium rich clays.
The next day I chugged further up the Tampobata River for around 3 hours, into the pristine heart of the Tampobata National Reserve.
Travelling so far into this Amazonian region far away from human interference definitely feels like an expedition. The forest seemed denser, the trees taller and the animal noises louder. I saw crested owls sat quietly watching me from the safety of their branch and capybara chilling on the river bank.
Then, during a sunset boat ride down the river on my final night, I got the rare glimpse, in the distance, of a jaguar retreating from the river to the safety of the rainforest.
After a few days sweltering in the Amazon I took a short flight, hopping over the Andes to Cusco, where I was immediately whisked off to the Sacred Valley which, sitting at 2,800m, is lower than Cusco and so is a good place to acclimatise. Formed by the Urubamba River, it is a picturesque spot perfect for relaxing and taking in the beautiful views up to the Andes or down over a patchwork of fields and eucalyptus trees.
The valley is also a great place for outdoor pursuits. Activities include white water rafting, hiking to high altitude lakes or cycling to the salt pans of Maras and the circular Incan terraces at Moray.
But in the Sacred Valley, the people are as important as the landscapes. I was very fortunate to be welcomed into the charming Amaru Community. I learnt about Andean culture and also the textile dying and weaving processes used by the villagers, where the vivid colours of their clothes are derived from natural dyes made from plants and other organic elements.
I also took part in a very special ceremony of sound and traditional offerings to Pachamama. Meaning Mother Earth in the ancient Quechua language, an offering to Pachamama is one of Peru’s oldest and most sacred rituals, which allows the people of the Andes to give thanks to their one and only goddess.
My base in the Sacred Valley was the wonderful Sol y Luna Hotel which is a riot of colour from the pretty adobe casitas to the stunning gardens. But, as well as being a fabulous hotel to stay at, as a guest you are also contributing to the Sol y Luna Foundation. Set up by the owners of the hotel, the Foundation aims to provide education and a safe and loving environment for local children who often lack financial resources, face abandonment or domestic violence. Since 2009, the Foundation has established a school, which now has over 200 students, a centre for children with disabilities and also an orphanage. I was lucky enough to spend time at the orphanage, meeting the children and finding out all about the excellent work of the Foundation.
Early one morning I set of for my hike to the one thing most people go to Peru to see, Machu Picchu. I took the panoramic train which wound its way through the mountains, up to the point 104km along the Cusco to Machu Picchu railroad.
After being dropped off by the side of the rail track, I started my hike up from around 2,100m to the impressive archaeological site of Wiñay Wayna (2,650m), along the old paths (and many steps) that the Incas used all those years ago.
I continued further up through stunning highland jungle to Intipunku, the Sun Gate, from where I got my first glimpse of the sacred citadel of Machu Picchu.
Even second time around, Machu Picchu was still a delight to my eyes as, yet again, I wondered how the Incas created such a masterpiece so high up in the middle of nowhere!
Then I scaled Huayna Picchu (also known as Wayna Picchu), a non-stop, heart wrenching ascent up a lot of stone Inca steps. I am happy to say I managed it in record time and the views from the top were breath-taking.
Back in Cusco, I had time to explore, and had happily acclimatised to its altitude at 3,400m. Once the capital of the Incan Empire, until the conquistadors arrived, the town enjoys a dramatic setting high up in the Andes and its UNESCO protected old town is a stunning mix of ancient Incan and Spanish influences.
And there is always a lady in traditional dress with her llama in tow, who is happy to have her photograph taken for a few Peruvian Soles!
Next month I continue my journey across the high Altiplano by luxury train to Lake Titicaca before completing my Peruvian adventure at the coast and the hip surf town of Mancora.
I travelled to Peru in November, just before the rains started. But the weather is good from May, with July and August being an ideal time to travel, which makes Peru a great place for a family adventure during the summer school holidays. If you would like more information on a trip to Peru, then please do get in touch.
{All images: Lesley-Ann}