"I haven't been on a horse in 35 years" I said nervously. "Not since Bouncer lived up to his name throwing me off and bolting, dragging me behind with one foot stuck in a stirrup".
Arriving at Estancia Los Potreros, near Córdoba in Argentina, I hadn't expected to get back in the saddle. I was there to see what a stay on an Estancia held for the non-rider. But after a lunch with the wonderful host and owner, Kevin, I was introduced to Rebenque and up I was.
I think my face had a look of fear on it as I was shown how to ride gaucho style by my guide, Roxanne, a loveable cowgirl from Montana. Unlike at home where you hold the reigns in both hands, gauchos (Argentinian cowboys) ride holding the reigns in one hand. This allows them to use their free hand for other more useful things like lassoing. My spare hand, however, remained firmly gripped to the saddle.
But I needn't have worried. Rebenque was very responsive and sure footed and it wasn't long before I was cantering across the pampas. After a few hours we reached "Top of the World" and were blessed with stunning views as far as the eye could see across the 6,000 acres of the Estancia.
Back at the Estancia it was time to freshen up before dinner. My room was simple but very comfortable and cosy with lots of antiques. A stay at Estancia Los Potreros is not about luxurious accommodation that could be anywhere in the world. It’s all about experiencing life on a family owned, working Argentine cattle ranch with first class hospitality, where you are welcomed with open arms.
Meals are a very sociable affair and are taken together at a family table, allowing guests to share stories of their daily adventures.......or their lives! I discovered that the Estancia had been in Kevin’s family for generations. Kevin likes his wine and so there was always a nice bottle to accompany the delicious dinner.
The next day there was real work to be done. Back in the saddle, Roxanne and I joined our gaucho, Daniel, as the cattle needed to be moved to their new field across the road.
My job (with plenty of shouting and whistling) was to ensure the cattle kept moving, whilst Daniel expertly brought the stragglers into line.
By lunchtime my novice gaucho antics had paid off and the cows were safely in their new paddock. We workers were definitely ready for our picnic lunch.
So back to why I was really at Los Potreros. I have a number of clients who are horse riders and they would love to try a riding holiday, however their husbands are definitely not the horsey type. So what is there to do for the non-rider? Well first off, the horses at Los Potreros are exceptional and really do cater for every level including the complete novice. But if you’d prefer not to ride, you can still learn to lasso the cattle or take a farm truck across the beautiful lands of the Estancia to meet riders for lunch or at a sundowner spot. There are wonderful hikes through pristine sierras to waterfalls and the area is also great for birdwatching, with condors often spotted circling overhead. Or quite simply, you can relax in the beautiful and peaceful surroundings, which is why a couple of nights here is the perfect antidote to the more active side of a trip to Argentina.
The mighty red
From Córdoba I headed to Mendoza. For a wine region that produces 75% of the world’s Malbec, it was quite bizarre to find a desert landscape.
But resting in the foothills of the mighty Andes, the melting snow-caps provide excellent irrigation and the most impressive back drop to any vineyard I have ever seen. When I was there the harvest was over and the leaves of the vines were turning a gorgeous autumnal brown.
The area is bursting with over 1,000 picturesque vineyards. I started in the Uco Valley (around a 2 hour drive from Mendoza’s airport), which has been busy putting itself on the map with some excellent wineries, including the wonderful Zuccardi.
Days were spent travelling round sampling the wines of the many bodegas set on vineyards that stretched for miles against the stunning backdrop of the Andes.
The first place I stayed was the fabulous Vines Resort and Spa.
Not normally something I would comment on, but the gym had fabulous views. In fact, it was one of the best from a gym, possibly ever. Standing alone in the middle of the vineyard the view certainly spurred me on to work out, which was definitely needed with the vast amounts of food and wine I was consuming!
The view from the deck of my villa was rather special too.
The Vines also has one of the best restaurants in the area, Francis Mallman’s Siete Fuegos, where the food is cooked over seven different types of fires using open flame cooking techniques inspired by the gauchos.
Another favourite place of mine to stay is the charming 18 room Cavas Wine Lodge, where your own casita sits amongst the vines. On a good day you can sit on your roof top terrace, cosying up in front of your fire pit, Malbec in hand, taking in the views. Unfortunately the clouds had rolled in when I was there, but that didn't spoil a perfect end to a perfect few days in Mendoza.
If you are interested in experiencing life as a gaucho on a working Estancia, or seeing where most of the world’s Malbec is produced, or would like to find out more about Argentina, then please contact me and let me help you navigate your way through this wonderful country.