I’m not sure about you, but I have this dream that one day I’ll be able to swap my life here in Manchester for somewhere on the continent – somewhere warm where I know the sun will shine most days in the summer; a place where the locals say hello to you as you trot down to the bakery for your morning baguette; where you buy your food from the local market instead of running the gauntlet of shopping trolleys in the supermarket; and where I can spend warm evenings sipping wine in a lavender scented garden – come on admit it, you quite fancy that idea too?!

Well that life is exactly what a dear friend of mine (Ann) has created in Italy.  But what’s more, through her new venture, Montisi Magica, Ann is now giving you the opportunity to share in her perfect slice of Italian life too.

Ann is passionate about all things Italian and a few years ago she decided to indulge that passion and create a new life in Tuscany.  After much searching for the right location, Ann stumbled across a small medieval hill top village in Southern Tuscany called Montisi and was immediately seduced by its charms.  Never heard of it?  No, you won’t have as it’s not in the guide books, thankfully.  But what I can tell you – having experienced its delights – is that it’s beautiful and very magical; set around the remaining wall of a medieval 13^th century castle there are cobbled streets with old ladies chatting on benches, the bar is a hive of local characters and from every angle there are sublime views.  What’s more Montisi is smack bang in the middle of some of the best wine regions (Montepulciano and Montalcino to name just two) and is only 40 minutes’ drive from Siena.

Over the last few years Ann has spent her time exploring the area and the richness of what it has to offer.  She has discovered that an un-touched side to Tuscany does exist and it’s the authentic side she wants to share with others through Montisi Magica, which organises breaks for individuals and small groups giving them the opportunity to indulge in real Italian village life and experience everything Montisi and the surrounding area has to offer.

On one of Ann’s breaks, you won’t be parcelled off to a faceless tourist hotel but will stay in local accommodation in the heart of Montisi; each morning you can sit with the locals enjoying an espresso and croissant in the bar.  You will visit the local ‘foodie’ market in nearby Sinalunga with local chef Alessandro – he will help you source great produce and will then teach you how to cook it up into a delicious traditional Italian lunch.

You will discover the delights of the landscape and bring it to life in painting classes with the talented Liz Cochrane (www.elizabethcochrane.com) – believe me Liz has magic powers and can ensure that anyone (and I mean anyone) can go home with a masterpiece.

You will visit local farms to taste delicious fresh olive oil and cheeses and sample amazing wine at some of the best wineries in the area.  You’ll also be guided round the delights of Siena by Antonella Piredda (www.antonellapiredda.com), who will make the city come alive for you.

Ann has a number of week-long breaks running this year but, if you don’t have a week to spare then no worries.  Ann can put together weekend breaks or somewhere in between; and if you would prefer something more tailor made, she can arrange a multitude of different activities –  from truffle hunting to horse riding, days out cycling, walking or riding on a Vespa – or simply a day relaxing at the local hot springs.

Whether it’s for a week or a few days, if you’d like to indulge your dream of living like a local in a wonderful Italian village then please contact Ann (details below); and don’t forget to mention la Concordia!

(Images: Ann’s own)

I have to admit to being a bit of a lover of all things French: the food, the wine, the country.  So I always ensure the Hubby and I spend at least one holiday a year in France discovering different areas each time.  However, dare I admit it, it wasn’t until recently that we had our first foray in to the Dordogne region.  Okay, it’s certainly not undiscovered and definitely not a place to go to if you want to avoid the tourists but, what an absolute gem; with pristine medieval villages, castles, rolling hills and the Dordogne river snaking through the valley, it definitely looks like a place where fairy tales are made.

Needless to say, with such a photographic location we have lots of pictures and I thought I’d share a few of them with you so you too can experience the delights of the Dordogne – they might even inspire you to visit if you haven’t already.

The Hubby and I stayed in an ever so pretty village, our house built into the ramparts of the medieval castle with the most stunning view.

Each morning we were woken by the church bells and then the whoosh of the hot air balloons overhead.  Some mornings there was an eerie mist over the valley which soon cleared as the sun rose.

The daily trip to the boulangerie took us along cobblestone paths and the view was  beautiful beyond words.

We enjoyed walks along the Dordogne river, taking in more pretty villages and castles.

One of the joys of the area is the food and the best place to sample everything it has to offer is the weekly market in Sarlat – it’s always crowded and you certainly get absorbed in the local food on offer with stands full of vegetables, award winning cheeses, jams, honey, charcuterie and nougat (that stall was my favourite!).  Everything was set out so beautifully that you couldn’t help but fill your basket with the delights on offer.

One of our favourite days was visiting the beautifully landscaped Marqueyssac Gardens – like everywhere in the area the gardens were picture perfect and afforded wonderful panoramic views.

As you can tell by the photographs, the Dordogne region of France is stunning and a visit definitely leaves you inspired.

For more information on our trip or about the area, please feel free to contact me.

(Images: The Hubby and me)

Every once in a while we need to allow our bodies to break away from the vicious clutches of our stressful lifestyles and do something a little nurturing for ourselves.  After the onslaught of Christmas, a busy start to the year with work plus the totally depressing weather which reduced me to being a total hermit for 2 months, I was definitely in need of a spring clean – both mentally and physically – and to get a renewed appreciation of the outdoors before I went completely barking.After considering the burgeoning number of small, upmarket wellness retreats I opted for one in the UK – the thought of having to fly somewhere was too stressful!  So, for five full days I gave myself over completely to the nurturing hands of the team at Yeotown; now this is not the type of boot camp place where you’re frog marched around, left to survive on liquids and end up looking more miserable then when you arrived.  It’s a luxurious rural base in the beautiful Devon countryside where you leave your day to day routine behind (phone reception is poor and outside distractions are not encouraged) and have time to focus wholly and completely on yourself.

To really benefit from your time at Yeotown, you do need to ease yourself into the detox by following the pre-retreat guidelines: no meat, no diary, no wheat, no alcohol and definitely no caffeine.  The 2 weeks leading up to my five day retreat were hard but, the Hubby joined me for support (on a pared down detox) and it definitely made the five days easier.

The whole setting at Yeotown is just gorgeous and so relaxing – you’re made to feel at home as soon as you arrive and can treat the lounges and kitchen as your own.  My room was beautiful with a huge bed and sumptuous bathroom with enormous shower oodles of gorgeous organic toiletries and blissful under floor heating, which I could keep on and not have the Hubby nagging me to turn it off!

Each day we woke early and our excellent yoga instructor (one of the founders of Yeotown, Mercedes Ngoh) eased us into the day with Vinyassa Flow yoga.   After breakfast we undertook some bracing and speedy hikes along moorlands and stunning coastal paths which reminded me how wonderful the English countryside is….even in strong winds and rain.   Davy (our guide on all our hikes) certainly kept the pace going with his army background!  The afternoon was filled with other activities and before dinner Mercedes took us under her wing again for some relaxing yoga followed by some of the best massage I’ve had and informative talks to help make adjustments to your life at home.

Two things that stick in my mind about the five days was how friendly everyone was, both staff and guests (the maximum number of guests in 10) how amazing and nutritious vegan detox food can be, truly!  The Chef, Julia, is a wonder and yes, I had to get used to eating smaller quantities but, you were never left hungry (with regular snacks and Yeotinis to keep your blood sugar levels constant) and you definitely looked forward to your meals; I loved the fact that Julia would always chat about her recipes so you could get some insider knowledge.

Each guest arrived with their own motives and goals.  Mine was to feel better in myself, find some balance in my life and to prove that I had the self-discipline to do a 3 week detox.  I certainly achieved these and more – I left feeling brighter, refreshed and definitely calmer, with lots of great ways to tweak my life for the better including getting back my love for yoga.  What I loved at Yeotown was the whole holistic approach: strong in body, clear in mind and balance in being.

Yeotown offers 5 day detox retreats as well as shorter Weekend Warrior packages (www.yeotown.com).  If you’d like more information about what to expect on the retreat or ideas on other retreats (maybe in warmer climes!), then please get in touch.

(Images: Yeotown’s own)

Bangkok is like Marmite – you either love it or hate it – and for me I absolutely love it.  It’s a place I spent a lot of time exploring many years ago as a backpacker, drawn by the vibrancy and intoxicating culture of the city.  That was over 20 years ago and since then I’ve passed through Bangkok Airport on many occasions with the odd fleeting visit into the city and it was only recently that I lingered longer and I have to say, the City of Angels didn’t disappoint.  It has now transformed into a thoroughly modern city but it also stays true to its traditions and strong Buddhist beliefs; soaring skyscrapers and climate-controlled megamalls sit alongside colourful temples, mesmerising royal palaces, streets lined with food carts, long tail boats plying the river as they have for many years.

If you think that Bangkok is nothing more than a fume filled city clogged by traffic and tinged with the sleazy reputation brought on by the floorshows of Patpong Road, think again.  Yes, these elements exist but, Bangkok really is more than that and with so much of life conducted on the streets, there are few cities in the world that reward exploration as well as Bangkok, even if it is just for 24 hours.

Here are some of my highlights:

What to see

The main attraction in Bangkok is the Grand Palace and it has to be top of your list as it’s one of Thailand’s most impressive sights; do leave plenty of time though as it’s a vast complex. The architecture spans 200 years and there are more than 100 buildings and temples (or wats) within the grounds including the dazzlingly-tiled Wat Phra Kaeo temple, home of the most-holy (but surprisingly small) Emerald Buddha and the imposing gold and jewel clad  royal palace (although the king is no longer in residence).

Another impressive temple which is close by is Wat Pho; originally built in the 16^th century it contains colourfully tiled chedis, pretty murals and it’s most famous of residents, the 45-metre golden reclining Buddha which, like Buddha-nature, can’t be captured whole from any one angle.  Whilst visiting Wat Pho you must give weary feet a rest at the legendary Thai massage school.

However, my out and out wat winner is Wat Arun which sits across the river from the Grand Palace complex.  It’s dominated by a soaring 70-meter-high elongated prang (Khmer-style tower) from which you get wonderful views of life on the Chao Phraya River.  Surrounding the main prang are four smaller prangs, each one beautifully decorated with tiny pieces of coloured glass and porcelain; Wat Arun is known as the Temple of the Dawn because of the way the light reflects off its ornately decorated surfaces.

For a visual feast of a different sort, wander through Pak Klong Talad, Bangkok’s best known flower market which resides on the edge of the atmospheric Chinatown.  Here you’ll see every conceivable exotic plant and flower that Thailand has to offer.  The market comes to life after dark when the city’s flower sellers congregate to buy the next day’s supplies.

Shopping

Luckily the fake goods that covered street stalls in my day as a backpacker are most definitely on the wane and in their place the shopper’s paradise comes in the form of the upmarket malls around Siam Square, full to the brim of every conceivable designer label and some very hip local talent as well.

If you like to conduct your shopping market style then head to the undisputed king of Bangkok’s markets, Chatuchak (or simply JJ as it’s fondly known).  This weekend market is vast with around 15,000 shops and stalls spread over 35 acres – it’s great for anything from clothes and antique curios to live snakes!  Despite its size, you’ll be up against hundreds of thousands of visitors so go prepared!

Nightlife

At night, there is definitely no need to go anywhere near the neon-lit strips of sleaze that is Patpong – and believe me, it really isn’t worth it.  Bangkok’s celebrated evening scene is sophisticated and more about cool skyscraper bars and design-conscious clubs than go-go bars.

We started our evening with skyscraper sipping at the Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar; after jostling for space we spied a coveted couple of stools and perched with our cocktails taking in the sublime night time view over the whole of the city.

Then it was on to dinner and this is where I get excited, as Thai food is my all-time favourite; from cutting edge restaurants to the humble street stalls the food is delicious.  We decided to go all out with Michelin Star dining at Nahm – voted as one of the top 50 restaurants in the world, we indulged in authentic Thai food at its best.  If spicy Thai food is not for you then fear not as Bangkok is a gourmet’s delight with options for all tastes and budget.

Getting around

Don’t even think about taking a taxi in Bangkok (except to and from the airport) – the roads are so clogged that you need the nippiness of a tuk-tuk to weave in and out of the stationary traffic.  Yes, a ride in a tuk-tuk can be hair-raising and yes you do end up paying more than a metered taxi but, it’s the quickest way to get around and there’s nothing better than experiencing the hurly-burly of taxiing in a tuk-tuk!

Another must is to see the city from the Chao Phraya River; due to its network of canals the city was once known as the Venice of the East.  You can hire your own long tail boat, but the cheapest way is to ply the river on one of the water taxis, cramming yourself on with locals and tourists alike.

Alternatively you can get a new perspective on Bangkok with an organised cycle tour of the old city which takes in panoramic views, visits to small local communities and finishes with sunset at Wat Arun.

And finally

Over the last 20 years I’ve seen Bangkok evolve into a thoroughly modern city but despite this race towards the future, it’s never lost its Thai-ness.  If you’re travelling east and have to fly via Bangkok, then I really do urge you to plan a stop-off in the city, even if it’s just for one night.  You’ll be rewarded with a fascinating, intoxicating and chaotic place, brimming with sights, smells, culture, noise and excitement; an exhilarating attack on the senses.

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If you’re interested in visiting just Bangkok or are planning a wider trip to Asia then please feel free to get in touch with me,  I’d be happy to chat through some travel ideas with you.

(Images: The Hubby and me)

Without doubt Burma is the most talked about travel destination at the moment and one that I had been wanting to visit for such a long time; it’s brutal history under the ruling military junta being the reason I had stayed away.  However, with the release of Aung San Suu Kyi and the lifting of the tourism boycott by the National League for Democracy, now seemed a good time for the Hubby and I to visit a country where tourism is ramping up and change is inevitably on the horizon.

Although Burma is by no means backward, it has an untouched quality preserved by years of economic and political isolation from the West.  The traditional dress of velvet flip flops and the skirt like longyi is widely worn, whilst faces are white with Thanaka (used as make-up and sun block).  Religion plays an important part in daily life and Buddhism is certainly big in Burma; the landscape is dotted with golden pagodas whilst streets are festooned with red robed monks and prettily dressed nuns in pink collecting their daily alms – though the sight of many of them carrying iPads and better smart phones than me is a bit odd!  What’s great is that the form of Buddhism practiced in Burma is all encompassing and you share your visits to pagodas with locals going about their daily worship.

The people

For me, the warmth of the people in Burma certainly rivalled the stunning scenery and culture; they are yet to be (too) spoiled by tourism and are gentle, welcoming and inquisitive, each one genuinely wanting to engage with you.  From the old man in the market who, on finding out I was British, regaled (in remarkably good English) about his time fighting in the war with Lord Mountbatten.  To the monk whose job was to practice his English on tourists, and happily chatted about football to the Hubby; his favourite footballer was Wayne Looney (”R’s are difficult to pronounce in Burmese or maybe they’re not and he actually got the surname spot on?!).  Even the black market money changers are less aggressive than other Asian countries – they actually take “no” for an answer and walk off with a smile and a “have a nice day”.

The trip

The Hubby and I started our trip in Rangoon (now named Yangon), a bustling noisy town with a colourful street life where locals sell their wares or sit at one of the little pavement food stalls chatting, eating and drinking endless cups of sweet milky tea.  Under the British colonial-era the city would have been very grand indeed; now once ornately decorated buildings lie crumbling and pavements are littered with crater sized holes.

Overlooking the city is the Shwedagon Pagoda which is probably one of the most impressive temple complexes I’ve ever come across (and there have been a few).  It’s the most important pagoda in Burma and people come from all over the country to visit at least once in their life time.  At its heart lies a huge golden stupa that glistens in the sunlight, gaining greater depth as the sun sets and the sky darkens whilst at night, encrusted with over 5,000 diamonds, the stupa twinkles and acts as a beacon over the whole of Yangon.

Up, up and away

Burma is a country of amazing sites and Bagan, our next destination, didn’t disappoint.  Here 11^th Century Burmese kings, in an ostentatious show, went on a building spree resulting in over 3,000 religious monuments being built over about 50 sq kms.  Restoration has taken place (some by what looks like trainee brickies) and there are some impressive monuments like the Ananda Pagoda with its four huge golden Buddha’s but many stupas are unremarkable.  What is incredible however is the sheer vastness of the plain and the number of temples, a spectacular landscape which is most definitely best experienced from the sky; one dawn to the gentle whoosh of the gas burners the Hubby and I rose through the early morning mist in a balloon and were greeted by the sublime sight of thousands of bell shaped temples.

The road to Mandalay

Next on our journey was Mandalay, a city so blitzed by the Japanese/British war time struggle that it almost ceased to exist.  In the centre, surrounded by a large moat is the Fort Palace, which is the only place we ever came across the military junta.  Then there’s the beautiful and intricately carved teak Golden Palace monastery and the serene Kuthodaw Pagoda with its 729 huge marble tablets inscribed with Buddhist scriptures.  Many of Mandalay’s best sights lie outside the urban centre.  At the ancient capital of Inwa (Ava) go back in time as you explore the area in a horse drawn cart, clip clopping along rural lanes to monasteries and past rice paddies tended by local workers.  At Amarapura you can watch as over a thousand monks take lunch at the country’s largest monastery and walk at sunset over the 200 year old U-Bein’s Bridge which is 1 km long and constructed entirely out of teak.

Ever heard the one about the one legged rower?

From Mandalay we travelled to our final stop, Inle Lake.  Here we found some of Burma’s most dreamy scenery: the Intha people live on the lake shores and floating villages, in houses built on stilts unchanged in 200 years (with electricity introduced only recently); they tend their floating gardens whilst fishermen row with one arm and one leg leaving the other arm free to handle the nets and markets are full of cheroot smoking ladies from the surrounding hill tribes.  Although most places around the lake are visited by long boat, a bike ride through the countryside and local villages gave the Hubby and I some of our most memorable experiences: on a visit to a monastery we were invited in to take lunch with the monks and I (a stressed western woman) was given an impromptu meditation session; then there was wine tasting at a Burmese vineyard – stunning scenery and some very quaffable wine.

Our trip to Burma was over far too quickly but we left with wonderful memories and experiences.  After decades of darkness and fear, there is a real sense of hope and optimism for the country.  However, this is bringing rapid change – we arrived into the cash only country with wads of Dollars and left as ATMs were being fitted on most street corners and the lack of mobile connection we found incredibly liberating will soon be a thing of the past.  I just hope the traditions and warmth of the people remain unchanged.

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If you’re interested in visiting Burma please feel free to get in touch with me,  I’d be happy to chat about our trip in more detail.

(Images: The Hubby and me)